Extreme wave statistics of long-crested irregular waves over a shoal
نویسندگان
چکیده
منابع مشابه
The long-wave instability of short-crested waves, via embedding in the oblique two-wave interaction
The motivation for this work is the stability problem for short-crested Stokes waves. A new point of view is proposed, based on the observation that an understanding of the linear stability of short-crested waves (SCWs) is closely associated with an understanding of the stability of the oblique non-resonant interaction between two waves. The proposed approach is to embed the SCWs in a six-param...
متن کاملNumerical Simulation of Random Irregular Waves for Wave Generation in Laboratory Flumes
Understanding of wave hydrodynamics and its effects are important for engineers and scientists. Important insights may be gained from laboratory studies. Often the waves are simulated in laboratory flumes do not have the full characteristics of real sea waves. It is then necessary to present reliable methods of wave generation in wave flumes. In this paper, the results of numerically simulate...
متن کاملCoherence and predictability of extreme events in irregular waves
This paper concerns the description and the predictability of a freak event when at a certain position information in the form of a time signal is given. The prediction will use the phase information for an estimate of the position and time of the occurrence of a large wave, and to predict the measure of phase coherence at the estimated focussing position. The coherence and the spectrum will de...
متن کاملLong Wave Expansions for Water Waves over Random Topography
In this paper, we study the motion of the free surface of a body of fluid over a variable bottom, in a long wave asymptotic regime. We assume that the bottom of the fluid region can be described by a stationary random process β(x, ω) whose variations take place on short length scales and which are decorrelated on the length scale of the long waves. This is a question of homogenization theory in...
متن کاملOccurrence of extreme waves in three-dimensional mechanically generated wave fields propagating over an oblique current
Laboratory experiments were performed to study the dynamics of threedimensional mechanically generated waves propagating over an oblique current in partial opposition. The flow velocity varied along the mean wave direction of propagation with an increasing trend between the wave-maker and the centre of the tank. Tests with regular wave packets traversing the area of positive current gradient sh...
متن کاملذخیره در منابع من
با ذخیره ی این منبع در منابع من، دسترسی به آن را برای استفاده های بعدی آسان تر کنید
ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Journal of Fluid Mechanics
سال: 2019
ISSN: 0022-1120,1469-7645
DOI: 10.1017/jfm.2019.861